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@ -6469,23 +6553,16 @@
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"<a class=\"internal-link\" href=\"02.02 Paris/Café Hugo.md\"> Café Hugo </a>",
"<a class=\"internal-link\" href=\"00.03 News/Strange new phase of matter created in quantum computer acts like it has two time dimensions.md\"> Strange new phase of matter created in quantum computer acts like it has two time dimensions </a>",
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"<a class=\"internal-link\" href=\"00.08 Bookmarks/Bookmarks - Work.md\"> Bookmarks - Work </a>"
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"<a class=\"internal-link\" href=\"05.02 Networks/How to Install and Configure Prometheus Alert Manager on Ubuntu 20.04 LTS.md\"> How to Install and Configure Prometheus Alert Manager on Ubuntu 20.04 LTS </a>",
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"<a class=\"internal-link\" href=\"00.03 News/Liz Truss has made Britain a riskier bet for bond investors.md\"> Liz Truss has made Britain a riskier bet for bond investors </a>",
@ -6721,34 +6818,7 @@
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"<a class=\"internal-link\" href=\"00.03 News/No Sex for You Lyta Gold.md\"> No Sex for You Lyta Gold </a>",
"<a class=\"internal-link\" href=\"00.03 News/Why is a small Swedish automaker a decade ahead of the rest of the industry.md\"> Why is a small Swedish automaker a decade ahead of the rest of the industry </a>",
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"title":":desktop_computer: [[Selfhosting]], [[Server Tools|Tools]]: Upgrader Gitea & Health checks %%done_del%%",
"time":"2022-10-18",
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"title":":closed_lock_with_key: [[Selfhosting]], [[Server Tools|Tools]]: Upgrader Bitwarden & Health checks %%done_del%%",
"time":"2022-12-18",
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"title":":hammer_and_wrench: [[Selfhosting]], [[Server Tools|Tools]]: Upgrader Standard Notes & Health checks %%done_del%%",
"time":"2023-01-18",
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"title":":desktop_computer: [[Selfhosting]], [[Server Tools|Tools]]: Upgrader Gitea & Health checks %%done_del%%",
"time":"2023-02-18",
"rowNumber":705
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{
"title":":hammer_and_wrench: [[Server Tools]]: Backup server %%done_del%%",
@ -128,11 +128,6 @@
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],
"04.01 lebv.org/lebv Research Tasks.md":[
{
"title":":fleur_de_lis: [[lebv Research Tasks|Research]]: <mark style=\"Background:grey\">membres de la famille</mark>: éplucher les mentions du Nobiliaire de Guyenne & Gascogne",
"time":"2022-10-20",
"rowNumber":74
},
{
"title":":fleur_de_lis: [[lebv Research Tasks|Research]]: <mark style=\"background:grey\">membres de la famille</mark>: reprendre les citations militaires (promotion/décoration)",
"time":"2022-10-30",
@ -142,6 +137,11 @@
"title":":fleur_de_lis: [[lebv Research Tasks|Research]]: <mark style=\"background:grey\">Lieux</mark>: que sont devenus Fleurimont & Le Pavillon aujourd'hui?",
"time":"2022-11-15",
"rowNumber":72
},
{
"title":":fleur_de_lis: [[lebv Research Tasks|Research]]: <mark style=\"Background:grey\">membres de la famille</mark>: éplucher les mentions du Nobiliaire de Guyenne & Gascogne",
"description":"<p>As the sun came up over Florida yesterday, a fuller picture began to emerge of the destruction that Hurricane Ian had inflicted on the state and its residents.</p><p>The Category 4 storm washed away roads, bridges, cars, boats and homes. The damage is so extensive that, according to the state’s governor, Ron DeSantis, it may take years to rebuild.</p><p>Guests: <a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/by/patricia-mazzei\">Patricia Mazzei</a>, the Miami bureau chief for The New York Times;<a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/by/richard-fausset\"> Richard Fausset</a>, a Times correspondent based in Atlanta;<a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/by/nicholas-bogel-burroughs\"> Nicholas Bogel-Burroughs</a>, a national news reporter for The Times; and<a href=\"https://www.hilaryswift.com/about\"> Hilary Swift</a>, a photojournalist.</p><p>Background reading:</p><ul><li><a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2022/09/29/climate/hurricane-ian-florida-intensity.html\">Data from NASA</a> reveals how warm ocean waters in the Gulf of Mexico provided the fuel that turned Hurricane Ian into such a potent force.</li><li>The scale of the wreckage was staggering, even to Florida residents who had survived and<a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/09/29/us/hurricane-ian-florida-damage.html\"> rebuilt after other powerful hurricanes</a>.</li></ul><p>For more information on today’s episode, visit nytimes.com/thedaily. Transcripts of each episode will be made available by the next workday.</p>\n",
"description":"<p>As the sun came up over Florida yesterday, a fuller picture began to emerge of the destruction that Hurricane Ian had inflicted on the state and its residents.</p><p>The Category 4 storm washed away roads, bridges, cars, boats and homes. The damage is so extensive that, according to the state’s governor, Ron DeSantis, it may take years to rebuild.</p><p>Guests: <a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/by/patricia-mazzei\">Patricia Mazzei</a>, the Miami bureau chief for The New York Times;<a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/by/richard-fausset\"> Richard Fausset</a>, a Times correspondent based in Atlanta;<a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/by/nicholas-bogel-burroughs\"> Nicholas Bogel-Burroughs</a>, a national news reporter for The Times; and<a href=\"https://www.hilaryswift.com/about\"> Hilary Swift</a>, a photojournalist.</p><p>Background reading:</p><ul><li><a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2022/09/29/climate/hurricane-ian-florida-intensity.html\">Data from NASA</a> reveals how warm ocean waters in the Gulf of Mexico provided the fuel that turned Hurricane Ian into such a potent force.</li><li>The scale of the wreckage was staggering, even to Florida residents who had survived and<a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/09/29/us/hurricane-ian-florida-damage.html\"> rebuilt after other powerful hurricanes</a>.</li></ul><p>For more information on today’s episode, visit nytimes.com/thedaily. Transcripts of each episode will be made available by the next workday.</p>\n",
"title":"'The Run-Up': The Stacey Abrams Playbook",
"description":"<p>When Georgia flipped blue in the 2020 election, it gave Democrats new hope for the future. Credit for that success goes to Stacey Abrams and the playbook she developed for the state. It cemented her role as a national celebrity, in politics and pop culture. But, unsurprisingly, that celebrity has also made her a target of Republicans, who say she’s a losing candidate. On today’s episode: the Stacey Abrams playbook, and why the Georgia governor’s race means more to Democrats than a single elected office.</p><p>“<a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/column/election-run-up-podcast\">The Run-Up</a>” is a new politics podcast from The New York Times. Leading up to the 2022 midterms, we’ll be sharing the latest episode here every Saturday. If you want to hear episodes when they first drop on Thursdays, follow “The Run-Up” wherever you get your podcasts, including on <a href=\"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-run-up/id1142083165\" target=\"_blank\">Apple</a>, <a href=\"https://open.spotify.com/show/6mWcEpRBJ3hCMtcBQiKYVv?si=de2f346204224cad&nd=1\" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, <a href=\"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5zaW1wbGVjYXN0LmNvbS9LY3RuMVJEQg?sa=X&ved=0CAIQ9sEGahgKEwjIsOW9pID6AhUAAAAAHQAAAAAQogE\" target=\"_blank\">Google</a>, <a href=\"https://www.stitcher.com/show/the-run-up\" target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a> and <a href=\"https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/d00566e5-d738-4166-9794-9102adb15da8/the-run-up?ref=dm_sh_fwYnU6MJQiH18TSxZvauWZ9Gx\" target=\"_blank\">Amazon Music</a>.</p>\n",
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@ -201,29 +174,88 @@ function displayTracker(tracker, element, getSectionInfo, settings) {
# First known map of night sky found hidden in Medieval parchment
![A fortified compound in a desert region.](https://media.nature.com/lw767/magazine-assets/d41586-022-03296-1/d41586-022-03296-1_23614112.jpg)
The library of St Catherine’s Monastery on the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt yielded a palimpsest containing stellar coordinates by Hipparchus.Credit: Amanda Ahn/Alamy
A medieval parchment from a monastery in Egypt has yielded a surprising treasure. Hidden beneath Christian texts, scholars have discovered what seems to be part of the long-lost star catalogue of the astronomer Hipparchus — believed to be the earliest known attempt to map the entire sky.
Scholars have been searching for Hipparchus’s catalogue for centuries. James Evans, a historian of astronomy at the University of Puget Sound in Tacoma, Washington, describes the find as “rare” and “remarkable”. The extract is published online this week in the *Journal for the History of Astronomy*[1](https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-022-03296-1#ref-CR1). Evans says it proves that Hipparchus, often considered the greatest astronomer of ancient Greece, really did map the heavens centuries before other known attempts. It also illuminates a crucial moment in the birth of science, when astronomers shifted from simply describing the patterns they saw in the sky to measuring and predicting them.
The manuscript came from the Greek Orthodox St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai Peninsula, Egypt, but most of its 146 leaves, or folios, are now owned by the Museum of the Bible in Washington DC. The pages contain the *Codex Climaci Rescriptus*, a collection of Syriac texts written in the tenth or eleventh centuries. But the codex is a palimpsest: parchment that was scraped clean of older text by the scribe so that it could be reused.
The older writing was thought to contain further Christian texts and, in 2012, biblical scholar Peter Williams at the University of Cambridge, UK, asked his students to study the pages as a summer project. One of them, Jamie Klair, unexpectedly spotted a passage in Greek often attributed to the astronomer Eratosthenes. In 2017, the pages were re-analysed using state-of-the-art multispectral imaging. Researchers at the Early Manuscripts Electronic Library in Rolling Hills Estates, California, and the University of Rochester in New York took 42 photographs of each page in varying wavelengths of light, and used computer algorithms to search for combinations of frequencies that enhanced the hidden text.
## Star signs
Nine folios revealed astronomical material, which (according to radiocarbon dating and the style of the writing) was probably transcribed in the fifth or sixth centuries. It includes star-origin myths by Eratosthenes and parts of a famous third-century-bc poem called *Phaenomena*, which describes the constellations. Then, while poring over the images during a coronavirus lockdown, Williams noticed something much more unusual. He alerted science historian Victor Gysembergh at the French national scientific research centre CNRS in Paris. “I was very excited from the beginning,” says Gysembergh. “It was immediately clear we had star coordinates.”
![Sequence of spectral imaging by the Early Manuscripts Electronic Library and the Lazarus Project.](https://media.nature.com/lw767/magazine-assets/d41586-022-03296-1/d41586-022-03296-1_23614104.gif)
This cross-fade montage shows a detail of the palimpsest under ordinary lighting; under multispectral analysis; and with a reconstruction of the hidden text.Credit: Museum of the Bible ([CC BY-SA 4.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/)). Photo by Early Manuscripts Electronic Library/Lazarus Project, University of Rochester; multispectral processing by Keith T. Knox; tracings by Emanuel Zingg.
The surviving passage, deciphered by Gysembergh and his colleague Emmanuel Zingg at Sorbonne University in Paris, is about a page long. It states the length and breadth in degrees of the constellation Corona Borealis, the northern crown, and gives coordinates for the stars at its extreme north, south, east and west.
Several lines of evidence point to Hipparchus as the source, beginning with the idiosyncratic way in which some of the data are expressed. And, crucially, the precision of the ancient astronomer’s measurements enabled the team to date the observations. The phenomenon of precession — in which Earth slowly wobbles on its axis by around one degree every 72 years — means that the position of the ‘fixed’ stars slowly shifts in the sky. The researchers were able to use this to check when the ancient astronomer must have made his observations, and found that the coordinates fit roughly 129 bc — during the time when Hipparchus was working.
Until now, says Evans, the only star catalogue that had survived from antiquity was one compiled by astronomer Claudius Ptolemy in Alexandria, Egypt, in the second century ad. His treatise *Almagest*, one of the most influential scientific texts in history, set out a mathematical model of the cosmos — with Earth at its centre — that was accepted for more than 1,200 years. He also gave the coordinates and magnitudes of more than 1,000 stars. However, it is mentioned several times in ancient sources that the person who first measured the stars was Hipparchus, who worked on the Greek island of Rhodes three centuries before, roughly between 190 and120 bc.
## Location, location, location
Babylonian astronomers had previously measured the positions of some stars around the zodiac, the constellations that lie along the ecliptic — the Sun’s annual path against the fixed stars, as seen from Earth. But Hipparchus was the first to define the locations of stars using two coordinates, and to map stars across the whole sky. Among other things, it was Hipparchus himself who first discovered Earth’s precession, and he modelled the apparent motions of the Sun and Moon.
Gysembergh and his colleagues used the data they discovered to confirm that coordinates for three other star constellations (Ursa Major, Ursa Minor and Draco), in a separate medieval Latin manuscript known as the *Aratus Latinus*, must also come directly from Hipparchus. “The new fragment makes this much, much clearer,” says Mathieu Ossendrijver, a historian of astronomy at the Free University of Berlin. “This star catalogue that has been hovering in the literature as an almost hypothetical thing has become very concrete.”
The researchers think that Hipparchus’s original list, like Ptolemy’s, would have included observations of nearly every visible star in the sky. Without a telescope, says Gysembergh, he must have used a sighting tube, known as a dioptra, or a mechanism called an armillary sphere. “It represents countless hours of work.”
The relationship between Hipparchus and Ptolemy has always been murky. Some scholars have suggested that Hipparchus’s catalogue never existed. Others (starting with sixteenth-century astronomer Tycho Brahe) argued that Ptolemy had stolen Hipparchus’s data and claimed it as his own. “Many people think that Hipparchus was the truly great discoverer,” says Gysembergh, whereas Ptolemy was “an amazing teacher” who compiled his predecessors’ work.
From the data in the fragments, the team concludes that Ptolemy did not simply copy Hipparchus’s numbers. But perhaps he should have: Hipparchus’s observations seem to be notably more accurate, with the coordinates read so far correct to within one degree. And whereas Ptolemy based his coordinate system on the ecliptic, Hipparchus used the celestial equator, a system more common in modern star maps.
## Birth of a field
The discovery “enriches our picture” of Hipparchus, says Evans. “It gives us a fascinating glimpse of what he actually did.” And in doing so, it sheds light on a key development in Western civilization, the “mathematization of nature”, in which scholars seeking to understand the Universe shifted from simply describing the patterns they saw to aiming to measure, calculate and predict.
Hipparchus was the pivotal figure responsible for “turning astronomy into a predictive science”, agrees Ossendrijver. In his only surviving work, Hipparchus criticized earlier astronomical writers for not caring about numerical accuracy in their visions of orbits and celestial spheres.
He is thought to have been inspired by his contact with Babylonian astronomers, and to have had access to centuries’ worth of their precise observations. The Babylonians had no interest in modelling how the Solar System was arranged in three dimensions but, because of their belief in celestial omens, they made accurate observations and developed mathematical methods to model and predict the timing of events such as lunar eclipses. With Hipparchus, this tradition merged with the Greek geometric approach, says Evans, and “modern astronomy really begins”.
The researchers hope that as imaging techniques improve, they will uncover further star coordinates, giving them a larger data set to study. Several parts of the *Codex Climaci Rescriptus* have not yet been deciphered. It is also possible that additional pages from the star catalogue survive in the St Catherine’s library, which contains more than 160 palimpsests. Efforts to read these have already revealed previously unknown Greek medical texts, including drug recipes, surgical instructions and a guide to medicinal plants.
Beyond that, multispectral imaging of palimpsests is opening a rich new seam of ancient texts in archives around the world. “In Europe alone, there are literally thousands of palimpsests in major libraries,” says Gysembergh. “This is just one case, that’s very exciting, of a research possibility that can be applied to thousands of manuscripts with amazing discoveries every time.”
**image:In this quantum computer, physicists created a never-before-seen phase of matter that acts as if time has two dimensions. The phase could help protect quantum information from destruction for far longer than current methods.** [view more](https://www.eurekalert.org/multimedia/942463)
Credit: Quantinuum
By shining a laser pulse sequence inspired by the Fibonacci numbers at atoms inside a quantum computer, physicists have created a remarkable, never-before-seen phase of matter. The phase has the benefits of two time dimensions despite there still being only one singular flow of time, [the physicists report July 20 in *Nature*](https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-022-04853-4).
This mind-bending property offers a sought-after benefit: Information stored in the phase is far more protected against errors than with alternative setups currently used in quantum computers. As a result, the information can exist without getting garbled for much longer, an important milestone for making quantum computing viable, says study lead author Philipp Dumitrescu.
The approach’s use of an “extra” time dimension “is a completely different way of thinking about phases of matter,” says Dumitrescu, who worked on the project as a research fellow at the [Flatiron Institute](https://www.simonsfoundation.org/flatiron/)’s [Center for Computational Quantum Physics](https://www.simonsfoundation.org/flatiron/center-for-computational-quantum-physics/) in New York City. “I’ve been working on these theory ideas for over five years, and seeing them come actually to be realized in experiments is exciting.”
Dumitrescu spearheaded the study’s theoretical component with Andrew Potter of the University of British Columbia in Vancouver, Romain Vasseur of the University of Massachusetts, Amherst, and Ajesh Kumar of the University of Texas at Austin. The experiments were carried out on a quantum computer at Quantinuum in Broomfield, Colorado, by a team led by Brian Neyenhuis.
The workhorses of the team’s quantum computer are 10 atomic ions of an element called ytterbium. Each ion is individually held and controlled by electric fields produced by an ion trap, and can be manipulated or measured using laser pulses.
Each of those atomic ions serves as what scientists dub a quantum bit, or ‘qubit.’ Whereas traditional computers quantify information in bits (each representing a 0 or a 1), the qubits used by quantum computers leverage the strangeness of quantum mechanics to store even more information. Just as Schrödinger’s cat is both dead and alive in its box, a qubit can be a 0, a 1 or a mashup — or ‘superposition’ — of both. That extra information density and the way qubits interact with one another promise to allow quantum computers to tackle computational problems far beyond the reach of conventional computers.
There’s a big problem, though: Just as peeking in Schrödinger’s box seals the cat’s fate, so does interacting with a qubit. And that interaction doesn’t even have to be deliberate. “Even if you keep all the atoms under tight control, they can lose their quantumness by talking to their environment, heating up or interacting with things in ways you didn’t plan,” Dumitrescu says. “In practice, experimental devices have many sources of error that can degrade coherence after just a few laser pulses.”
The challenge, therefore, is to make qubits more robust. To do that, physicists can use ‘symmetries,’ essentially properties that hold up to change. (A snowflake, for instance, has rotational symmetry because it looks the same when rotated by 60 degrees.) One method is adding time symmetry by blasting the atoms with rhythmic laser pulses. This approach helps, but Dumitrescu and his collaborators wondered if they could go further. So instead of just one time symmetry, they aimed to add two by using ordered but non-repeating laser pulses.
The best way to understand their approach is by considering something else ordered yet non-repeating: ‘quasicrystals.’ A typical crystal has a regular, repeating structure, like the hexagons in a honeycomb. A quasicrystal still has order, but its patterns never repeat. (Penrose tiling is one example of this.) Even more mind-boggling is that quasicrystals are crystals from higher dimensions projected, or squished down, into lower dimensions. Those higher dimensions can even be beyond physical space’s three dimensions: A 2-D Penrose tiling, for instance, is a projected slice of a 5-D lattice.
For the qubits, Dumitrescu, Vasseur and Potter [proposed in 2018](https://journals.aps.org/prl/abstract/10.1103/PhysRevLett.120.070602) the creation of a quasicrystal in time rather than space. Whereas a periodic laser pulse would alternate (A, B, A, B, A, B, etc.), the researchers created a quasi-periodic laser-pulse regimen based on the Fibonacci sequence. In such a sequence, each part of the sequence is the sum of the two previous parts (A, AB, ABA, ABAAB, ABAABABA, etc.). This arrangement, just like a quasicrystal, is ordered without repeating. And, akin to a quasicrystal, it’s a 2D pattern squashed into a single dimension. That dimensional flattening theoretically results in two time symmetries instead of just one: The system essentially gets a bonus symmetry from a nonexistent extra time dimension.
Actual quantum computers are incredibly complex experimental systems, though, so whether the benefits promised by the theory would endure in real-world qubits remained unproven.
Using Quantinuum’s quantum computer, the experientialists put the theory to the test. They pulsed laser light at the computer’s qubits both periodically and using the sequence based on the Fibonacci numbers. The focus was on the qubits at either end of the 10-atom lineup; that’s where the researchers expected to see the new phase of matter experiencing two time symmetries at once. In the periodic test, the edge qubits stayed quantum for around 1.5 seconds — already an impressive length given that the qubits were interacting strongly with one another. With the quasi-periodic pattern, the qubits stayed quantum for the entire length of the experiment, about 5.5 seconds. That’s because the extra time symmetry provided more protection, Dumitrescu says.
“With this quasi-periodic sequence, there’s a complicated evolution that cancels out all the errors that live on the edge,” he says. “Because of that, the edge stays quantum-mechanically coherent much, much longer than you’d expect.”
Though the findings demonstrate that the new phase of matter can act as long-term quantum information storage, the researchers still need to functionally integrate the phase with the computational side of quantum computing. “We have this direct, tantalizing application, but we need to find a way to hook it into the calculations,” Dumitrescu says. “That’s an open problem we’re working on.”
---
**ABOUT THE FLATIRON INSTITUTE**
The Flatiron Institute is the research division of the Simons Foundation. The institute's mission is to advance scientific research through computational methods, including data analysis, theory, modeling and simulation. The institute's Center for Computational Quantum Physics aims to develop the concepts, theories, algorithms and codes needed to solve the quantum many-body problem and to use the solutions to predict the behavior of materials and molecules of scientific and technological interest.
---
---
#### Method of Research
Experimental study
#### Subject of Research
Not applicable
#### Article Title
Dynamical topological phase realized in a trapped-ion quantum simulator
#### Article Publication Date
20-Jul-2022
**Disclaimer:** AAAS and EurekAlert! are not responsible for the accuracy of news releases posted to EurekAlert! by contributing institutions or for the use of any information through the EurekAlert system.
Confident and cool, Milan keeps its finest treasures under wraps, tucked away in hidden gardens, down alleyways and in far-flung neighborhoods. Those who dig deep into this sprawling, fast-paced city will be rewarded. New destinations for architecture and design were christened during the 60th Salone del Mobile, the international furniture fair that drives Milan’s annual design week, which returned in June with its first full-scale event since 2019. Today there is an optimistic energy on the streets, where new cultural projects are reviving defunct industrial spaces, a diverse culinary scene is blossoming, and unexpected discoveries await travelers to this resilient, resurgent and stylish city.
## Recommendations
Key stops
- **[Bar Basso](http://barbasso.com/en/)** is a classic bar with a pink interior, beloved by both fashionistas and a neighborhood crowd.
- **[Milan’s Duomo](https://www.duomomilano.it/en/)** offers an up-close look at spires and gargoyles, as well as an expansive view of the city and the Alps beyond.
- **[Mercato Centrale Milano](https://www.mercatocentrale.com/milan)** is a sprawling local food market in the city’s grand central railway station.
Galleries and attractions
- **[Dimorecentrale](https://www.dimorecentrale.com/)**, which houses the new headquarters of the design firm Dimorestudio, is a cultural hub with gallery spaces.
- **[Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano](https://www.casamuseoboschidistefano.it/en/)** is housed in the former residence of an art-collecting couple who amassed an impressive collection of 20th-century Italian art.
- **[Fondazione Prada Milan](https://www.fondazioneprada.org/visit/visit-milan/?lang=en)** is a groundbreaking contemporary art venue in a former distillery.
- **[Osservatorio](https://www.fondazioneprada.org/visit/milano-osservatorio/?lang=en)** is a gallery that exhibits visual works, photographs and videos exploring societal themes.
- **[The Cloister](https://www.thecloister.store/en/)**, in a palazzo dating to the 15th century, is a shop filled with treasures, from vintage gowns to plants and perfumes.
Restaurants and bars
- At **[e/n enoteca naturale](https://enotecanaturale.it/p/il-locale)****,** sip natural wine at tables set in a garden beside the [Basilica di Sant’Eustorgio](http://www.santeustorgio.it/).
- **[Osteria Alla Concorrenza](https://osteriaallaconcorrenza.business.site/)** has old-fashioned décor and dishes like focaccia stuffed with mortadella and cheese.
- **[Tone Milano](https://www.instagram.com/tone.milano/?hl=en)** sells baked goods, from flaky filo-dough burek to focaccia with peaches and rosemary.
- **[Pastamadre](https://www.pastamadremilano.it/)** elevates pasta from a starter course to the star on an ever-changing menu.
- **[Loste Café](https://lostecafe.com/)** is a sunny Scandinavian-inspired coffee shop (try the buttery cardamom buns).
Where to stay
- The **[Radisson Collection Palazzo Touring Club](https://www.radissonhotels.com/en-us/hotels/radisson-collection-milan-palazzo-touring-club)** opened last fall in the Art Nouveau-style Palazzo Bertarelli. There is a colonnaded lobby, library, restaurant and 89 rooms and suites (doubles from about €325, or about $321).
- **[B&B Hotel Milano City Center Duomo](https://www.hotel-bb.com/en/hotel/milano-city-center-duomo)** opened in 2020 with 30 snug-but-stylish rooms in a city-center location, steps from the Teatro alla Scala opera house (doubles from about €120).
- Search for **a short-term rental** in the Centro Storico, where metro and tram lines make it easy to explore. Options are plentiful south of the Duomo, where one-bedroom apartments, some within handsome palazzi, start at around €150 per night.
One of the most talked-about openings during the latest Salone del Mobile was [Dimorecentrale](https://www.dimorecentrale.com/), the new headquarters of the design and architecture firm Dimorestudio. Located in a former railway warehouse near the central train station, this cultural hub spans more than 20,000 square feet, with a concrete central courtyard surrounded by studio, office and gallery spaces, as well as a bar and shop (both opening soon) stocked with curated goods chosen by the founders, Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran. Tour the sprawling industrial gallery, where exhibitions showcase furniture and design pieces in the studio’s elegantly eclectic style.
In Milan, aperitivo is a cherished ritual that many still associate with cloyingly sweet spritzes and cheap buffets. You’ll suffer neither at [e/n enoteca naturale](https://enotecanaturale.it/p/il-locale), a natural wine bar with tables set in a leafy garden beside the [Basilica di Sant’Eustorgio](http://www.santeustorgio.it/). Here, biodynamic wines from the cellar are served alongside small bites — mozzarella balls and slices of salami, tinned anchovies with butter and bread, caponata and a bowl of plump olives — to tide you over until dinner. Aperitivo for two, about €30, or about $29.50.
What [Osteria Alla Concorrenza](https://osteriaallaconcorrenza.business.site/) lacks — a kitchen — it makes up for with atmosphere. At this bustling restaurant, which opened last year with garrulous staff and old-fashioned décor, the wine flows freely and no one seems to mind that much of the food arrives on paper plates. This is the second establishment from Diego Rossi, the celebrated chef at [Trippa](https://www.trippamilano.it/), one of the toughest reservations in the city, and it’s packed nightly. Book in advance to join the fun and dine on crostoni — maybe lardo, pesto and Parmigiano, or pancetta and artichoke — as well as focaccia stuffed with mortadella and cheese and beef tongue with pickled vegetables, all paired with natural wines from cult-favorite producers. Dinner for two, about €60.
Milan’s art offerings include more than works found in museums and [da Vinci’s masterpiece](https://cenacolovinciano.org/en/). The city’s case museo, or house museums, include villas, apartments and studios that have been transformed into small-scale museums. One worth seeking out is [Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano](https://www.casamuseoboschidistefano.it/en/) (free), a second-floor apartment that was formerly the residence of Antonio Boschi and Marieda di Stefano, a couple who amassed an impressive collection of 20th-century Italian art, including works from Lucio Fontana, Giorgio de Chirico, Umberto Boccioni and Piero Manzoni. Some 300 pieces are displayed throughout the residence, from the grand living and dining rooms to the mustard-tiled bathroom.
12 p.m. Have lunch in a Georgian “bread laboratory”
Across the city, a wave of new panifici and pasticcerie — bakeries and pastry shops — are seeking inspiration beyond Italy’s borders. To sample this delicious trend, head to [Tone Milano](https://www.instagram.com/tone.milano/?hl=en), a bakery, cafe and “bread laboratory” that opened last year. Named after the round, barrel-shaped oven traditionally used to bake bread in Georgia, this friendly spot offers a range of baked goods, from flaky filo-dough burek and hearty Icelandic rúgbraud to savory focaccia with peaches and rosemary. At lunch, try khachapuri adjaruli, a boat-shaped Georgian bread that is here made with sourdough, filled with tangy cheeses, topped with a runny egg and served warm (€10).
The groundbreaking contemporary art venue [Fondazione Prada Milan](https://www.fondazioneprada.org/visit/visit-milan/?lang=en) has been a must-see since its 2015 opening in a former distillery in the Largo Isarco area. But don’t overlook [Osservatorio](https://www.fondazioneprada.org/visit/milano-osservatorio/?lang=en), the Fondazione Prada photography gallery on the fifth and sixth floors of the landmark [Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II](https://www.introducingmilan.com/galleria-vittorio-emanuele-ii) shopping arcade (admission €10; included with tickets to the Largo Isarco venue). From the elegant arcade, an elevator whisks visitors to the gallery, where exhibitions include visual works, photographs and videos exploring thought-provoking societal themes.
One expects excellent shops in the Italian capital of fashion and design. But the place to find truly unexpected wares is [the Cloister](https://www.thecloister.store/en/). Located within Casa dei Grifi, a palazzo dating to the 15th century, on an alley in the labyrinthine Cinque Vie neighborhood, this kaleidoscopic shop is filled with uncommon treasures, from vintage designer gowns and workwear jackets — all in perfect condition — to jewelry and décor, plants and perfumes, art and accessories. A recent exploration unearthed vintage suede Hermès heels, men’s 1970s bathing trunks, antique embroidered ribbons and a trove of rare books and magazines.
Forget the formal Italian dinner parade of primo, secondo and dolce. At [Pastamadre](https://www.pastamadremilano.it/), a casual restaurant in the lively Porta Romana neighborhood, pasta is elevated from a starter to the star on the ever-changing menu. Inside the airy dining room, with terrazzo floors and wood details, a recent meal began with crisp fried squid and a wonderful battuta di manzo (beef tartare) with caper pesto and fried zucchini flowers. Of the main dishes, all fresh pastas, the highlight was a swirl of spaghetti alla chitarra in a yellow-cherry-tomato sauce, topped with a dollop of fresh stracciatella cheese and red-prawn tartare. Dinner for two, about €75.
The hottest bar in town, especially during the Salone del Mobile, is neither new nor trendy. [Bar Basso](http://barbasso.com/en/) has been around for decades — the pink interior, mirrored walls and chandeliers unchanged — and has been credited with inventing the Negroni Sbagliato, a twist on the classic cocktail that substitutes sparkling wine for gin. Perhaps a post-lockdown yen for nostalgia is fueling the surging popularity of this classic haunt, where fashion designers rub shoulders with neighborhood retirees. Join the crowd seated beneath the glowing red neon sign outside and order the house specialty, which comes in a dainty coupe or a comically large goblet. Either way, the price is the same (€11), so go big.
In a city dominated by hulking neoclassical architecture and modern skyscrapers, it’s a delight to stumble upon Via Abramo Lincoln. Known as the Quartiere Arcobaleno, or Rainbow District, this residential lane is lined with gardens, swaying palm trees and cottages painted in vibrant hues, like a Ligurian fishing village. Stroll through it on the way to [Loste Café](https://lostecafe.com/), a sunny, Scandinavian-inspired coffee shop that opened nearby last year. One of the owners, Stefano Ferraro, was formerly the head pastry chef at [Noma](https://noma.dk/) in Copenhagen, a résumé detail that’s evident in the pastries, such as il cardamomo, a buttery cardamom bun with a coffee-orange glaze (€2.80) that pairs perfectly with a silky cappuccino (€2.20).
At some point, every visitor will pause to marvel at the Gothic facade and towering spires of Milan’s [Duomo](https://www.duomomilano.it/en/). But for a closer inspection of this magnificent cathedral, which dates to the 14th century, ascend to the rooftop for an up-close view of those intricately detailed spires as well as hundreds of gargoyles, statues and stone carvings (tickets from €10). Then take in the expansive panorama, from the glittering glass dome of the neighboring Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II to new glass-and-steel skyscrapers and the distant Alps beyond.
Most departures from the city pass through Milano Centrale, the central railway station known for its grand architecture, soaring entry hall and the odd Fascist detail. Last fall, the station’s appeal grew beyond mere transport hub with the opening of [Mercato Centrale Milano](https://www.mercatocentrale.com/milan), a food market spanning two floors and nearly 50,000 square feet in a formerly abandoned space on the station’s northwestern edge. As in Florence, Rome and Turin, this Mercato Centrale is a who’s who of top local artisans — bread from [Davide Longoni](https://www.davidelongoni.com/), organic cheeses from [Tommaso Carioni](https://www.mercatocentrale.com/milan/artisans/tommaso-carionis-dairy-and-organic-deli/), dumplings from [Agie Zhou of Ravioleria Sarpi](https://www.mercatocentrale.com/milan/artisans/agie-zhous-chinese-dumplings/) — with dozens of stalls to explore before bidding farewell to the city.
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